Uphawu lombukiso ingubo ye-muslin ehlotshiswe ngama roses kasilika kanye ne-taffeta ngumklami u-Anne Lou (1898-1981), owaphayona imfashini eyakhiwe ngabesifazane base-Afrika baseMelika.
I-Metropolitan Museum of Art - isikhungo esikhulu kunazo zonke e-United States sokwethula nokucwaninga zonke izinhlobo zobuciko - inikezela umbukiso wemfashini odalwe abesifazane besifazane, kubika i-AFP.
Lo mbukiso unesihloko esithi “Women dress women”. Uphawu lombukiso ingubo ye-muslin ehlotshiswe ngamaroses kasilika kanye ne-taffeta ngumklami u-Anne Lowe (1898-1981), owaphayona imfashini eyakhiwe ngabesifazane base-Afrika baseMelika. U-Lowe uvame ukunganakwa njengomklami, nakuba iphethini yengubo yomshado kaJackie Kennedy (1953) kwakuwumsebenzi wakhe.
Emashumini amathathu eminyaka ngaphambili, indlu yemfashini yaseFrance esekhohliwe manje - "Premet" - yethula ingubo "La garconne". Ukuphumelela kwalo modeli kwandulelwa iminyaka emithathu umqondo ofanayo wemfashini kaGabrielle Chanel.
Umnyuziyamu uqoqe izingubo ezingama-80 ngabaklami abangama-70 kusukela ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20 kuze kube namuhla. Izingubo zikaGabriela Hearst ziyavezwa, kusetshenziswa imfashini yesimanje ukuthumela imiyalezo yezemvelo.
Umlando wabesifazane bemfashini uqala ngomsebenzi wokuthunga kuma-ateliers emfashini. Abaqambi abaningi eFrance bavele ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20 - uMadeleine Bionne, uJean Lanvin, uGabrielle Chanel. Phakathi kwezimpi zomhlaba ezimbili, abesifazane bemfashini manje base bebaningi kunamadoda.
Ukuze ukwazi ukwethula abaklami abadaliwe baka-Elsa Schiaparelli, uNina Ricci noma u-Vivienne Westwood, i-Metropolitan Costume Institute isesha phakathi kwamaqoqo ayo aqukethe amamodeli angu-33,000 kuwo wonke umlando wezingubo zokugqoka ezingamakhulu ayisikhombisa.
Lo mbukiso wawuhlelelwe u-2020 ukukhumbula iminyaka eyi-100 yenhlangano ye-suffragette e-United States. Ukubambezeleka kwawo kuwumphumela wobhubhane lwe-COVID-19.
Umbukiso olandelayo omkhulu we-Costume Institute uzoba ngo-2024 ngaphansi kwesihloko esithi Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion.
Isithombe: Metropolitan Museum of Art
